Experts Weigh In On How To Navigate The Overwhelming World Of Cosmetic Face Masks

Cleopatra’s beauty routine wasn’t far off from that of today’s women.

The Queen of Egypt was rumored to use face masks with ingredients like eggs, gold, honey and olive oil to maintain her radiant glow. Look around any major beauty retailer today, and you’ll see a robust selection of mass-produced face masks, some of which even include those same ingredients Cleopatra preferred.

In recent years, consumers have shown a major uptick in interest in the products, embracing face masks as part of their regular beauty and skin care routines.

“Most people can actually benefit from them,” says Dr. Jennifer Mueller, a dermatologist at the Dermatology Associates of Lancaster. “They just haven’t been using them until recently.”

Women in particular are driving the market. A September report by NPD group, formerly called the National Purchase Diary, maintains 30 percent of women today are using face masks, resulting in a 39 percent increase in sales of face masks by prestige, or higher-priced, brands.

While some face masks can cost upwards of $100, there are many options available under $10, some of which are made in Lancaster.

Types

Face masks come in four basic varieties, as outlined by Sephora Pro Artist Dina Nikocevic. They are mud masks, peel-off masks, sleeping masks and sheet masks. Some sheet masks cover the entire face, while others target specific areas, like the area under eyes or lips.

Mud masks are cream-like mixtures that are applied directly to the face, and after being kept on for a specified amount of time, are washed off with water. Peel-off masks are applied the same way, but are gently peeled off the face when they dry. Sleeping masks are intended to be left on overnight, and sheet masks are thin, tissue-like material soaked in a serum.

Nikocevic says sheet masks are a great place to start.

“Sheet masks are great for beginners,” Nikocevic wrote in an email. “They’re easy to use, fast-acting and require no rinsing.”

Melissa Lyons, owner of Lancaster skin care boutique Melinessence, offers powdered masks that are used by adding water, milk or yogurt to create a paste. She warns against using tap water, which she says can have harmful bacteria that could trigger more skin issues.

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How to select

Both Mueller and Lyons say clients should first consider what they’re trying to accomplish by using a mask.

Lyons, who makes all of her products from natural ingredients in-house, says the most common skin issues her clients are seeking help with are aging skin, acne, dryness and general dullness. Lyons says she’s seen customers of all ages show interest in face masks.

“We have the younger crew that has the acne issues, and then we have the aging crew that’s more concerned about fine lines and wrinkles,” Lyons says.

Lyons, Nikocevic and Mueller have specific face mask recommendations for individual skin problems.

Acne

Lyons: If acne is severe, she recommends her dead sea mud mask but warns of how strong and drying it can be. Moisturizing after this mask is key. If acne is modest, start by using the boutique’s charcoal mask, which Lyons says isn’t as drying.

Nikocevic: She recommends the beauty blogger fave GlamGlow Supermud Clearing Treatment ($69).

Mueller: She recommends four types of masks to control oil and acne: charcoal, clay, salicylic acid and benzol peroxide. Benzol peroxide can be extremely drying, so Mueller recommends doing this sort of treatment once a week at most and always moisturizing after. “It’s really important not to overuse them if you have acne, because if you overstrip the skin, it tends to sort of get angry and fight back and break out more,” she says.

Anti-aging

Lyons: She recommends the Melinessence pumpkin mask. “A lot of people don’t realize that the chemical peels and stuff like that, you can actually get that same effect from fruits and vegetables,” Lyons says. Lyons also offers a powdered anti-aging mask made from Australian pink clay, guava and cranberries.

Nikocevic: She recommends a magnet face mask, which is used by applying a thin layer to cleansed skin, leaving the mask on for 10 minutes, and then gliding a tissue-covered magnet over the skin to lift off the mask. She likes Dr. Brandt’s Magnetight Age Defier ($75), which she says “creates a ‘force-field effect’ that offers tighter, more youthful-looking skin with repeated use.”

Mueller: She recommends products with niacinamide. “There are certain enzymes in our skin that ... as we age ... start to go away and make the skin look more wrinkled and dull,” she says. “Niacinamide actually preserves those enzymes.” She also recommends masks with hyaluronic acid, which is naturally present in the human body. “It will plump the skin a bit, which is going to make the fine lines look less noticeable,” she says. No moisturizing is needed after a mask with hyaluronic acid, she says.

Dullness

Lyons: Melinessence’s powdered mask made with yellow clay, papaya and watermelon makes skin more radiant, she says.

Mueller: She recommends masks with white pearl essence, which can provide a luminous look.

Special occasion

Nikocevic: Fresh Black Tea Instant Perfecting Mask ($92) is her pick to prep for a big event. She says she used this mask herself on her wedding day. “It instantly gives skin a smoother, firmer and brighter appearance,” Nikocevic says.

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Instagram trend

Users should be cautious when selecting products to apply to their face.

Charcoal peel-off masks were a sensation on social media earlier this year. The thick black mask is intended to be applied to the face, dried and then peeled off. Sellers says the mask will lift out blackheads and other pore-clogging impurities. After videos of people using these masks on Instagram became popular, beauty bloggers shared their own how-to videos on making masks at home using charcoal powder and Elmer’s glue.

Mueller warns that these masks are ripping out more than just blackheads and sebum, the naturally occurring waxy substance on skin.

“You’re also taking off the top layer of your skin, which is a very superficial layer, mind you — it’s not like doing a chemical peel in the office — but if someone has sensitive skin, their skin is going to react to it,” Mueller says. “You can get hives. You can get full facial redness.”

Mueller says most people will tolerate reliably sourced peel-off masks. If interested in trying a charcoal mask, Nikocevic recommends the Boscia Luminizing Black Charcoal Mask ($34).

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Effectiveness

There’s a calming ritual around face masks, which have been closely associated with the self-care movement, which prioritizes being kind and taking care of oneself.

Some experts believe that’s all these all-natural masks provide.

Jocelyn Behr, an esthetician at Lancaster Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery who performs services like chemical peels, microneedling and microdermabrasion, will sometimes use high-quality pumpkin or papaya masks after a facial. Behr says the products available in a store, whether they are all-natural or otherwise, won’t provide results like a professional service.

“There’s really nothing at the drugstores ... the ingredients that we carry are pretty much the same price, but the ingredients are all medical grade and higher percentage that only can be sold with a doctor on board,” Behr says.

Mueller, however, says she’s seen positive results in her patients that use store-bought masks.

“It’s definitely a little more time- consuming, so it has to be a more dedicated patient,” Mueller says.

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 All-natural

Lyons’ decision to make her ingredients from all-natural ingredients stemmed from her frustration to find DEET-free products without a strong smell to protect her granddaughter from bugs while vacationing at the beach. She introduced face masks to her line of all-natural products in 2014.

Lyons is part of an industrywide trend. A September report by the NPD Group found that 40 to 50 percent of people actively seek natural or organic ingredients in facial skin care products.

Lush is one of the most recognizable brands of this movement. The British company, which has a location in Lancaster’s Park City Center and sells an array of face masks, prides itself on vegetarian ingredients and ecologically minded packaging.

Behr and Mueller both agree charcoal is an effective ingredient for reducing oil. But Behr is skeptical of the efficacy of store-bought natural masks, especially when comparing them to the quality of products she uses in her services.

“Some women say, ‘I’ve tried everything, and I just have to go with the natural route,’ ” Behr says. “Honestly, I don’t want to insult people, but they’re wasting their money.”

Mueller believes some store-bought natural masks can be effective. Ingredients like feverfew and aloe can help calm inflammation and redness, Mueller says, and clay and charcoal are effective at soaking up excess oil.

Just because a product is all-natural, Mueller warns, doesn’t mean it’s completely safe for all skin types.

“Things that are natural products can be potent allergens, too,” Mueller says, using poison ivy as an example.

Other warnings

No matter what style of face mask you’re interested in trying, Mueller recommends doing a test patch on your arm, especially if you have sensitive skin. If you’re using a sheet mask, test a bit of the excess product on your arm before applying the entire mask.

Mueller and Behr both strongly encourage using sunscreen daily, especially after any type of exfoliating mask, which will make the skin more sensitive to sunlight. People with rosacea, eczema and other skin sensitivities should be cautious when considering using face masks.

Source : https://lancasteronline.com/features/trending/experts-weigh-in-on-how-to-navigate-the-overwhelming-world/article_da0aadbe-e1d4-11e7-8a44-430e1ab809c9.html

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Experts Weigh In On How To Navigate The Overwhelming World Of Cosmetic Face Masks

Source:Daily Mail

Experts Weigh In On How To Navigate The Overwhelming World Of Cosmetic Face Masks

Experts Weigh In On How To Navigate The Overwhelming World Of Cosmetic Face Masks

Source:Reuters

Experts Weigh In On How To Navigate The Overwhelming World Of Cosmetic Face Masks

Experts Weigh In On How To Navigate The Overwhelming World Of Cosmetic Face Masks

Source:PBS

Experts Weigh In On How To Navigate The Overwhelming World Of Cosmetic Face Masks

Experts Weigh In On How To Navigate The Overwhelming World Of Cosmetic Face Masks

Source:Daily Mail

Experts Weigh In On How To Navigate The Overwhelming World Of Cosmetic Face Masks